![]() ![]() (Note: the ratio board, like most of the images on this page, enlarges if you click on it but the meter board below it is shown full-size). Of course, if you have my boards in hand, you can just flip them over to see the silkscreen designations but these pictures should help you out if you are doing a home-etch or are using other boards that don't have all the designations. You just have to match the numbers on the main board with the ratio and meter boards, in most cases.īecause all of my shots of the ratio and meter rotary switch boards are shown with the printed circuit boards upside-down, I've made up some scans to give an overview of where the connections are made. You'll see as you go along that wiring the 1176 clone is basically like painting by numbers - all the hard work is already done for you. This is because the holes provide a little mechanical support to the wire which is important for strong, reliable connections. ![]() If you are planning to solder wires directly to the boards it is always best to pass the wire from the "top" (silkscreen) side of the board through the holes rather than soldering them directly onto the copper side. I did this because it makes it much easier to plug in the corresponding connectors rather than trying to squeeze your fingers in between the board and the front panel. I've attached the pins to the back (copper) side of the rotary switch boards. One benefit of matrix pins is they make it easy to change your wiring if you make a mistake. ![]() In my example photographs for the rotary version, I've used "matrix pins" and plugs to make the electrical connections between the boards and other components. While there are some similarities between wiring the pushbutton version and the rotary, there are many differences too. Please note that the following instructions are for a single channel of the rotary switch version only (as opposed to the pushbutton version) and apply to either my or Jakob's original rotary switch PCB layouts. ![]()
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